ITTSB.EU Blog Forum
ITTSB Blog Specific => ITTSB - Small projects by Kiriakos & User reviews => Topic started by: Kiriakos GR on December 20, 2013, 11:10:11 PM
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About three months back I did rebuild the battery pack for third time since 1996,
and even open it up to inspect the all mechanism and renew the grease.
Today I did spend 4 EUR to get a new chuck key because I lost the old before some months.
The new key made me realize the terrible condition of the chuck holes, and moved back to the store for a new chuck this time.
The chuck exchange were rather easy, by locking the axle by one 11mm key and by using one large water pump pliers hand tool, I did manage to spin and unscrew the old one.
And now I am having a big smile in my face, this truly well build cordless drill with electronic trigger, is going to stay around probably for another 20 years. ;)
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Very good restoration! Battery rebuilding is the only way to extend your tools life, because if you attempt to buy an original battery, the most possible is to find it in a price nearly the price of a new tool, or if your tool is rather old its impossible to find the original battery for it.
Did you search for a chunk without key (as new ones) compatible with your tool? I am asking this because I have a Bosch PSB500 drill (with cord) from 1995 in good working condition, and I look for a new type chunk to replace the old.
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Yes there is local availability of BOSCH key-less chuck too, but I do not like them.
I drill mostly metal and even since three years back, I got these special HSS-G drill bits set by HAWERA ( Bosch re-brand).
By my experiences, when using the larger in diameter drill bits, it is best the chuck to lock down by the key.
I do also believe that the chuck with the key eliminates unnecessary misuse of the axle system that the chuck rotates.
In my research in the local market found also an made in Bulgaria key-less chuck for just 6EUR.
When returned back to my base with the new chuck, searched the web about the ROHM original manufacturer, and discovered this chuck to be priced between 32 to 45EUR.
My main power drill is one Hitachi blue (1000 EUR) of value, and uses also the same size chuck key,
somehow I do feel lucky that my two main tools are using the same key today.
Battery rebuild: BOSCH declared those series as EOL before many years, and stopped even offering batteries for them.
Spend about 12EUR on eBay about getting 8X fresh NI-CAD when locally are sold for 2,5 to 3 EUR its one.
I have manage to convert the original battery case in a way that battery rebuild is almost easy.
I guess that I am walking against the marketing flow, but if you can it always works in your benefit.
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I noticed from one of the pictures that you have post, that your tool have been made in Switzerland.
My old BOSCH PSB500 have been made in Switzerland too. They belong to the same generation (90s)I suppose , so they possible made from the same factory.
My new GBH 2-20 is made in Germany. It surprised me plesantly as nowdays big companies have move their factories at Eastern countries.
Naturally every company which move in other country, set the production standards, so the final product is the same, independent the country that have been made.
Even so,my personal opinion is that the feeling is different if your tool is made in Gremany than Poland e.g. ;)
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Every generation (series) of tools it is based in master plan regarding it life cycle.
When I visited the local BOSCH authorized reseller he told me that 10 years is the life cycle that BOSCH have in mind for their tools.
He was very surprised by looking my cordless drill which make him to push the trigger so listen the sound, and actually evaluate the condition of the tool.
When he realized that I am an genuine power-tools-lover , he gave me as gift three cobalt drill bits so to test them. ;)
Locally sponsored product review. haha
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Good deal! I hope that he gave you drills at the diameters you mostly need:D
I have some of them too. I also use long drills 20-30cm (not that at picture) that its hard to find everywhere, and their price is not low. These are very fragile, recent I broke one (3,5mmX 20cm) accidently, when I was drilling an aluminium frame from side to side. The drill reached an internal metal part , suddenly changed direction and broke until I prevent to stop drilling :( Fortunately I ever have a spare drill bit, so I continue the work.
Its a rule for me , when you work away from your base , you should ever have spare tools/accesories with you. You will save time by this way.
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Yes I do understand or better said... I do feel of what you are saying.
I am also armed for a battle in every terrain. :)
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Ammunition makes the weapon, as we say in Greece : tools makes the technician :)
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Yes there is local availability of BOSCH key-less chuck too, but I do not like them.
I drill mostly metal and even since three years back, I got these special HSS-G drill bits set by HAWERA ( Bosch re-brand).
By my experiences, when using the larger in diameter drill bits, it is best the chuck to lock down by the key.
I do also believe that the chuck with the key eliminates unnecessary misuse of the axle system that the chuck rotates.
In my research in the local market found also an made in Bulgaria key-less chuck for just 6EUR.
When returned back to my base with the new chuck, searched the web about the ROHM original manufacturer, and discovered this chuck to be priced between 32 to 45EUR.
My main power drill is one Hitachi blue (1000 EUR) of value, and uses also the same size chuck key,
somehow I do feel lucky that my two main tools are using the same key today.
Battery rebuild: BOSCH declared those series as EOL before many years, and stopped even offering batteries for them.
Spend about 12EUR on eBay about getting 8X fresh NI-CAD when locally are sold for 2,5 to 3 EUR its one.
I have manage to convert the original battery case in a way that battery rebuild is almost easy.
I guess that I am walking against the marketing flow, but if you can it always works in your benefit.
Well done Kyriakos nice rebuild work for the battery and for for the trick patent that you use about
holding the chuck key in the side of the body.I want to mention that there is another way to open that kind of bosch battery type no need to cut with dremel tool around the top of the battery to open you also can heat the point of the battery connection with hot air gun and after that with a hammer with plastic edge (Mazolla)
you can give a small's hit with some care not hard and after that the connection point open and you can replace the internal batteries with new one and after you can glue again and seal the battery as factory first .
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Thanks John for the tip,
from time to time I do check eBay about such batteries (original ones) so to get in my hands another one as spare.
They are circulating batteries of this type today (made in China), but I do not trust the quality of the plastic case.
(Mazolla) ? or Matsola .. either way I was had one around, nowadays I have another one (hand made) hammer with rubber head (edge). :)
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Hi Kiriakos GR, i also just got a BOSCH SR 9.6E, i got 2 batteries, one is a BOSCH NTC and another one is a ACCU NTC, the ACCU one is pretty much dead, does recharge, does spin the drill but has no power, i'm looking to give it a try to repair the battery because a new one exceeds the price of the tool, how do i do that exactly, how do i repair the battery with new cells, could you help me with some specific information + pics please ? i'll post some pics of my tool if i have a response.
Thanks! Greetings from Romania.
Also, if you have some info on the clutch that would be great, i have tried to dissasable it and i failed miserable, i don't know how to put it back where do all the pieces go ?
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I have a small difficulty to encourage you so to proceed in a battery rebuild.
Other than buying battery cells due eBay from China, you need to assembly those cells and solder them by their tabs, not to mention that you need special paper (unable to catch fire) so to use it as walls between the battery cells.
The last part you can avoid it by getting more expensive batteries which have carton coating from the factory instead of heat shrink nylon.
By opening your old battery, take allot of pictures, this will help you to rebuild it.
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I still need to rebuild the clutch system, can you please help me with that ?
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Regarding the mechanical problem the help comes to you by email. ;)
Check your account in 5 minutes.
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I've just managed to fix it, i had all the parts laying around, now i got it working agan, thanks a lot for the diagram, this was very usefully, i'm going to definitely stick to this forum, as a student who just got his first drill, also, i've found some replacement batteries for this drill, the cost is aprox 40 euros, they are "Bosch GSR 9,6V NiMH Knolle" they look simiar to the SR 9,6 style but they are NiMH instead of the Ni-Cd will this work, also, will i be able to rechage them at the normal battery charger or i'll need a special charger ?
Also, do you got more infos about this Bosch ? i got mine from a flea market, i don't know much about it, what year was it made ? what did i came with ?
Greetings from Romania !
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You will have to totally avoid the Nimh alternative version.
Their battery discharge rate is terrible.
Regarding Ebay and pricing, I would suggest this battery offering. 281133834599
Copy and past this number in the product search area of your ebay account.
Enjoy your membership in ITTSB :)
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Thanks !
How do you open the battery cage on this drill ? also, with what cells did you replace it and so on, i'd very much like to give that a try myself, i'm afraid of breaking the battery cage...
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I have buy this cordless drill as new at about 1996.
And have also all diagrams and instructions.
Regarging the battery opening it worth trying a tool called as spatcula (spatoula) a thin metal plate with a handle in the end.
@giorgos mentioned that by a bit of hot air, the separation gets easyer.
But try that up to 45C so to help the glue and not melt anything.
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Will do, can you please send me some diagrams and instruction, i have a feeling i'll keep this for a long time cause i really like it...
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What you received is the treasure, the other are safety instructions.
My last advice on the subject is ... fresh grease ... in the clutch system and all those plastic gears. ;)
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A link to those carbon replacement cells ? i'll give that a try, i'm good with soldering.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281133834599?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D281133834599%26_rdc%3D1
Take a look here. This is the battery that Kiriakos sugested at the begining of this topic.
You are welcome to ITTSB.
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A link to those carbon replacement cells ? i'll give that a try, i'm good with soldering.
Use the below keywords text on your eBay search text box.
8 x Sub C SubC 2500mAh 1.2V NiCd Blue Rechargeable Battery with Tab
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I was wondering, is there anyway to convert the battery to a Lithium ion ? or something more reliable ? also how could i restore some battery performance on the old NiCd ?
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I am unable to offer answers over experimental solutions.
One fresh pack of NiCD it will keep you happy for six years.
Half damaged NICD it can recover temporarily with few instant electric shock at 40DC.
But the miracle lasts only few hours or does not work at all.
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i see, well, i won't bother with ebay, i'll go for a local site, it's the same price of the battery + shipping so there it is, my problem is witch one should i choose ?
http://www.acumulator-shop.ro/acumulator-pentru-unelte-electrice/bosch-9-6volt-knolle/1.20.BOS.16
There's a list of them with specirfication, i see they have 2500mAh/24Wh over the 1500mAh ebay one has ?
Also whats with the GSB,GUS,GBM....letters ? some kind of specific code ?
Hope you can access that page.
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Contact your supplier by email and attach a picture of your battery to it too.
If he does have stock, then possibly you will be able to buy.
But for a tool which is discontinued for over a decade, I would say that even buying genuine old stock, it is a bad idea today.
The original Ni-CD was probably only 1400mAh its one, most modern ones are now at 2000mAh or more.
Basically any 2000mAh cell is great for it.
Since you have the original charger, close your eyes and get a fresh Ni-CD pack.
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I was wondering, is there anyway to convert the battery to a Lithium ion ? or something more reliable ? also how could i restore some battery performance on the old NiCd ?
If you change your battery to Li-ion you have certainly to change your charger too.
Charging Li-ion batteries is not something simple, it requires a specialized charger.
If you use a simple charger is very dangerous , with high posibility of battery explosion.
So the best is to join Kiriakos advice, and buy a fresh pack of NiCD battery.
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I've been fooled by the seller, the actually batteries can't hold a charge at all right now, i think he did the trick where he tried to apply a bigger current to the batteries and somehow made them work, i don't really know what do do since i paid for the complete pack around 20 euros, buying new battery pack would be around 100 euros, that can't be a good deal rebuilding them would also be expensive...
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Even a new or used faulty battery pack it is called as faulty because few cells inside (more than two) from the eight, they did turn bad.
Instead of talking about it, open it up and measure by a multimeter all the battery cells, and replace just the dead ones.
This is my last advice on your problem, if you are unable to follow it by your own, then ask for help from an local repair man in your area.
Yes, for me all those tasks looks easy, because I am a professional maintenance electrician.
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Fresh News.
Regarding rebuild of original Bosch - 2607300002 - Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cd) 1500mAh 9.6V, this time I did followed a new route.
I have rebuild my battery pack four times up to date by starting at 2003 ~ 2017, I have carefully separate top and bottom plastics, and I have reunite them by using a tiny aluminum plate this bonded internally at front side, and another two microscopic screws at the back (left & right from anchor clip.
In my last upgrade I did use Ni-CD Cells sold on eBay for cheap at nylon sleeve, unfortunately such batteries they are a marketing scam, listed battery capacity of several thousands mAh this is fake, and 2500mAh battery this is no more than 1000 mAh.
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=1362.0 (http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=1362.0)
Now and at my fifth battery rebuild I did make a new choice, I did purchase one 9,6V pack 2000Ah this compatible for MAKITA tools at 16€ plus 10€ shipping from Germany.
I did specific choice because assembled Ni-CD pack is by 90% identical to Bosch - 2607300002, only change required this is bottom two Ni-CD cells to be turned mechanically as is, so them to comply according to Bosch plastic case.
And final touch this is soldering of Bosch contacts plates ( Plus and minus) on the top of new battery cells.
I am not going to get in finer details of my battery rebuild, because this route it does include improvising and electrician skills, but either way my new choices they did work much better than other times.
Here you may find details of my own recently made battery capacity tests.
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=1384.0
By me selecting this time 2000mAh cells, my old basic charger at 400mA this now translates to five hours of charging.
Fast charger ( 1Hour ) for BOSCH SR 9.6E cordless drill this is AL60DV at please see bottom picture max 12V output ( Real transformer inside).
This AL60DV 4.8V ~12V this is 1.4A , this translates to 1H+35 minutes for 2Ah battery, I am currently looking getting a used one from eBay and test it.
My suggestion is all models of AL60DV 14V and above to be avoided, because if proper voltage detection fails, the battery will be destroyed.
Next topic for you .. History review of Bosch Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-CD) AL60 & AL60 DV chargers (https://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=1385.0) ;)